SchoolOf|HowFashionIndustryChangedTheGlobalUrbanLandscape時尚改變環境
The biggest lie of sustainable fashion nowadays is to use recycled PET fibers weaving more fabrics then producing more garments as solution to reduce pollution.
如今，可持續時尚的最大謊言是使用回收的PET纖維生產織物，然後生產更多的服裝作為減少污染的決方案。
Why do we say so|我們為什麼這麼說
First we do admit that recycle plastic into fiber would somewhat prevent plastic wastes going into land and water, but the recycling process would eventually produce more pollution which similar to the fiber production from fossil fuel refined resources.
It would also not able to prevent the new type of pollution from Micro plastics.
Last and most importantly, while fashion industry has not yet find good solution to sustain itself, can it capable to solve the problem of plastic pollution?
首先，我們確實承認將塑料回收利用為纖維將最終減少塑料污染對土地和水的污染，但是回收過程最終將產生更多的污染，類似於石化副產品纖維生產中所產生的污染。
這也將無法防止微塑料帶來的新型污染。
最後也是最重要的，當時裝業尚未找到維持自身產業可持續發展的良好解決方案，它能否擔負解決塑料污染問題的責任？
The waste which already hard to digest|自顧不暇的時尚過剩
That was ten years ago when the second recession hit fashion industry in China, online business saved the over produced QTY from domestic market in China. Many of us in this industry had predicted that we would still have inventories to sale for the next five years of time without producing any single piece of garment.
那是十年前，當中國時尚產業走入第二個低谷時，在線銷售挽救了中國國內市場過度生產的庫存銷售。我們行業中的許多人都曾預測，五年之內我們仍將有足量的庫存待售，完全不需要再生產任何一件衣服。
Yet, we didn't stop the engine, and fast fashion became a new comer and dominated this industry.
然而，我們並沒有停止生產，快速時尚這個新物種產生了並主導了這個行業。
In 2010, what we were worrying about was CO2 emission. In 2015, what we realized was there will be no water to produce jeans or T-shirt in nearly future. In 2019, we set up the goal of sustainability to reduce water consumption by 30% by 2025 and we understood that we cannot even recycle 10% of the garment wastes into fiber annually. Can fashion help to clean up the plastic help with this speed of production?
在2010年，我們擔心的是二氧化碳的排放。在2015年，我們意識到在不久的將來將沒有水生產牛仔褲或T恤。在2019年，我們設定了可持續發展的目標，到2025年將用水量減少30％，並且我們了解到我們甚至無法每年將10％的服裝廢料回收再製成為再生纖維。時尚工業真的以這種生產速度幫助清理塑料污染嗎？
This summer, group of students simulated the quantity of garments sold on major online platforms such as, Amazon, Net-a-Porte, Farfetch, Taobao, Tmall, JD and Pinduoduo, etc. There are 920 billion of garments being sold on those platforms. which means that every human on this planet had purchased at least 200 pieces of garment annually.
今年夏天，一群學生模擬了在主要的在線平台（如亞馬遜，Net-a-Porte，Farfetch，淘寶，天貓，京東和拼多多）上出售的服裝數量。這些平台上出售的服裝大約為9200億件 ， 這意味著這個星球上的每個人每年需要購買至少200件衣服。
The double 11 sales once again on 2019 had just reached the highest record. Let's just assume that this is the accurate number of sales. Our method of simulating the total sales on apparel business is as such: to take 30% of the total sales value in cash on Alibaba platform, and assume that the average sales per garment is 100RMB, we will get the number of apparel products sold at the day. and let's take 30% of this number as average sales per day, then times 364 and plus the single day sales of double 11, then you will have a good guess on how many apparel products have been sold annually at Alibaba. and let's keep in mind that this is just only one of the largest platforms on this planet.
2019年的雙11銷量再次刷新了歷史最高紀錄。讓我們相信這是真實的銷售數量。我們模擬服裝業務總銷售額的方法是這樣的：在阿里巴巴平台上，將總銷售額的30％作為時尚產品當日營業額，假設每件服裝的平均售價為100元，我們將得出當日服裝總銷售額。然後讓我們以這個數字的30％作為平均每天的銷售額，然後乘以364，再加雙11單日銷售額是，那麼您將對阿里巴巴每年售出多少服裝產品有一個很好的猜測。而且請記住，這只是地球上最大的平台之一。
Have we had solution on those which we have created?我們對於這些已經存在的服裝是否已經有解決方案？
We might have recycled 10% of fashion waste into fiber, meanwhile we will create another 90% of new fiber to satisfy the next cycle of production. We might have down cycled 20% of fashion waste into fuel in Sweden, and we will have produce another 80% of new fiber to weave new materials. We might have up-cycled some of materials and second hand products into new products, but would those effort enough to contain the quantity of total wastes? Do we still have room for recycled plastic fiber to save the fish, water and ocean?
Technically speaking do you really believe that 100% natural dye can support the dying process of PET fiber and qualify the the testing standard of color fasten? Do we still planing to increasing the pollution of micro plastic further?
我們可能會將10％的時尚廢物回收到纖維中，同時我們還將再生產90％的新纖維，以滿足下一生產週期的要求。在瑞典，我們可能會將20％的時尚廢料循環利用為燃料，並且我們將再生產80％的新纖維來編織新材料。我們可能已經將某些材料和二手產品再生設計升級為新產品，但是這些做法真的足以控制總廢物量嗎？我們還有能力去回收塑料再製纖維以拯救魚類，水和海洋嗎？
從技術上講，您真的相信100％天然染料可以支持PET纖維的染色過程並符合色牢度的測試標準嗎？我們是否還在計劃進一步增加微塑料的污染？
Can fashion industry digest plastic wastes while it is still responsible to the wastes already created?
時裝業仍在產生的廢物的時候還有能力消化塑料廢物嗎？
Guilty or not guilty|如何是好？
What we have said had nothing against the innovations of textile industry, on the other hand, we strongly suggest that every brand uses innovative sustainable materials to reduce the cost of new textile. But the Key of sustainable fashion is not issue of material, it is the issue of the total quantity which this industry had created.
我們所說的一切並非反對紡織業的創新，另一方面，我們強烈建議每個品牌都使用創新可持續的材料以減少新紡織品的成本。但是可持續時尚的關鍵不是材料的問題，而是時尚產業產品總量的問題。
The reason that recycled plastic fiber should not be considered as sustainable solution in fashion industry are as follow: 1. PET fiber cannot decrease the amount of fashion waste which had been created. 2. PET fiber increases more fashion wastes which cannot be decomposed. 3.recycled plastic fiber cannot decrease water pollution, energy consumption, and environmental pollution.
再生塑料纖維不應被視為時裝業的可持續解決方案的原因如下：1. PET纖維不能減少已產生的時尚廢物量。2. PET纖維增加了無法分解的時尚廢物。3，再生塑料纖維不會減少水污染，能源消耗和環境污染。
Imho, the essential of sustainable fashion or circular fashion is to contain the total quantity of products and digest from whichever had created.
恕我直言，可持續時裝或循環時尚的本質是控制我們創造的產品和消化庫存的總量。
By the time comes when we had better solution to deal with what fashion industry had created, then help to digest plastic wastes would be much proper solution to all.
到時候，我們有了更好的解決方案來應對時尚產業創造的垃圾，再去幫助消化塑料廢物或許才是正確的解決方案。
You might have asked why does recycled plastic fiber became a popular solution on sustainability? The answers are:
when the fiber was invented 10 years ago, fashion industry have not yet being covered with such amount of overproduced items. but someone had already realized that plastic would eventually became a huge problem.
plastic is cheap, therefore to recycle it into fiber is the cheapest solution on recycled fibers.
the world cup popularized the usage of recycled plastic fiber, that made it possible to be massed into a scale with reasonable price for cost and consumption on making.
您可能會問為什麼再生塑料纖維成為流行的可持續性解決方案？答案是：1.10年前當塑料再生纖維被發明的時候，時尚行業還沒有被如此大量的過度生產所覆蓋。但是已經有人意識到塑料污染最終將成為一個巨大的問題。
2.塑料很便宜，因此將其回收並制成纖維是再生纖維上最便宜的一種解決方案。
3.世界杯使得再生塑料纖維的使用變得普及，這使得時尚產業可以以合理的價格將其批量生產成規模，從而降低了製造成本。
Here are some questions we want to ask:
1. what if the garments which produced with recycled materials are still not sold, how do we deal with those plastics?
2. while we prevented sent more plastics into lands, rives and oceans, are we still create more micro plastics in addition?
3. if we all towards sustainability in the future, what should we do on the thing which already exist? any plans on those? are we ignoring the problems in front of us right here right now?
我們這裡不禁要問：
1.如果使用回收材料生產的服裝仍然沒有出售，我們該如何處理這些塑料副產品？
2.雖然我們阻止將更多的塑料製品送入陸地，河流和海洋，但我們是否同時在創造更多的塑料微粒污染？
3.如果我們將來都朝著可持續發展方向邁進，那麼我們對已經存在的過剩產品會如何處置？有什麼計劃嗎？我們現在在這裡忽略我們面前的問題嗎？
