SchoolOf|TheCostOfRecyle(DownCycle)再生原料的代價
Can we really keep Calm?|我們真能淡定自如？
While many of the designers, consultants, and innovation strategy planners are excited and fascinated about recycled fibers, and innovative materials, what we really ignored is till the true cost of recycle business.
儘管許多設計師，顧問和創新策略規劃師對再生纖維和創新材料報以濃厚的興趣，但我們真正忽略的是廢紡及廢物再生所付出的真正代價。
When we say that technologies and innovations can reduce water consumption on new making, or natural dye/waterless dye can reduce pollutions, or trying to provide solutions on plastic waste by making recycled plastic into fiber, most of the times we ignored couple of the facts:
當我們說技術和創新可以減少新產品製造的耗水量，或者天然染料/無水染料可以減少污染，或者試圖通過將再生塑料製成纖維來解決塑料污染問題時，大多數時候我們忽略了幾個事實 ：
Innovations do not guarantee business success.
Innovations do not reduce the cost and consumption on sorting.
Innovations cannot digest more than 15% of total waste under current capacity.
創新並不能保證企業的成功。
創新不會降低分揀的成本和消耗。
在現有能力下，創新的消化量不得超過總廢物的15％。
Recycle conspiracy|再生陰謀論
This clip revealed the downside of recycling industry in electronic components, but there are many similar angles which we should also look through in fashion field.
這個剪輯揭示了電子元件回收行業的弊端，但有許多相似的角度我們也應該以時尚的方式審視。
If you have never watch this clip from Ted, I strongly suggest you listen to it and learn from the numbers. What is the reality behand the "safe guard" of sustainability.
如果您從未看過Ted的這個演講，我強烈建議您聽一下並從數字中學習。可持續性的``保障''背後的現實是什麼？
Less bad is still bad.
少壞還是壞.
Pre Recycle Case Study: Allbirds scenario |在循環前期調研：Allbirds現象
First time I saw pair of Allbirds was on friend's moment. as a fashion designer who had shoe design experience, I told this friend that she should help Allbirds design better structure of the shoe. Even just see through her clip, I have already see the structure is not quit follow the structure of human feet, but without doubts the material should offer much better feeling specially on naked feet, Merino wool. As a Flyknit fan, my experience with Kyakusou tells me all issues with Allbirds in certain kind of regions of China and the South East Asia.
我第一次看到一對Allbirds是朋友在票圈曬圖。作為一位具有鞋類設計經驗的時裝設計師，我告訴這位同是設計師的朋友，她應該幫助Allbirds設計更好的鞋面結構。甚至只是通過她的小視頻，我已經看到結構並沒有遵循人腳的結構（並不包腳），但是毫無疑問，這種材料應該提供更好的腳感，尤其是美利奴羊毛。作為飛線的粉絲，我穿Kyakusou的經歷告訴我在中國和東南亞某些地區Allbirds羊毛蟹將會遇到的所有問題。
1. Easy breaking knit threads: three pairs of Flyknits and one pair of Onistuka Tiger had all had the issues on mesh surfaced materials. The good think about Flyknit is that you can possibly restitch your knit without being notice, but with Allbirds, you would not have such option only if you are a super skilled fabric repairing specialist, such people I have only seen when I saw working in the Germany headquarter of Hugo Boss.After watching the vast majority of reviews for two years, I found that almost all people who have worn Allbirds will have the same damages at the same places. This is of course related to the manufacturing process and design structure of the shoes.
1.容易斷線：三對耐克飛線運動鞋和一對Onistuka Tiger在網狀表面材料上都存在相同的問題。飛線的一個很好處就是您可能用針線修補斷線但不會被看出來，但是如果是Allbirds，除非當您是一位熟練的織物維修專家時，您才不會選擇用線縫補，具有這樣手藝的人我只在Hugo Boss德國總部工作時見過。而觀看了兩年的絕大多數review後發現幾乎所有穿就穿壞過Allbirds的人一些相同的地方都會出現同樣的破損問題。這當然和鞋子的製作工藝及設計結構有關。
2. Not water proof: one of the review in the US got a comment on rainy days, and it confirmed my concerns on not easy to be dried. I then went trough more reviews on this issue, most of them had the same situation even on washing. Not just that the rainy day sponge-bob effects, but also the energy consumptions on drying Allbirds. If you ask me why do I believe these are true and honest reviews? I would provide you my personal experiences with fabric based shoes. The first time I had bare-feet rainy day experiences with my Kyakusou was the day of Kyoto Marathon couple of years ago. There was heavy rain day before that day and I had the pair walked all the way to Kyomizuri-dera with loads of water within a pair of knit wrapped feet was awful experience, luckily Flyknit is polyester based material with quick dry treatment. the pair was dries completely, and i share my experience with a Japanese athlete who was going to Kyoto Marathon. My second experience on not easy dry fast is from my investment on organic washable baby diapers. Many of my customers in Southern China had concerns on how to dry the materials during rainy day or winter time. One of the YouTuber spent 6hours to dry his pair of Allbirds. If any one ever had experiences in western world, you know that unlike the chinese way of drying washed items under natural lights, most of people use dryer to dry their stuffs after cleaning. And if you have ever being a broken student, you would also know how much would cost you to have your pair of shoes dried in 6 hours with a dryer.
2.不防水：美國的一個測評視頻下面關於雨天的留言，確認了我對於他們的鞋不容易乾的擔憂。然後我查看了更多測評視頻發現，即使在洗滌時，大多數人的情況也相同。不僅是雨天的海綿錘效應，而且還有用於烘乾Allbirds鞋的能耗。如果您問我為什麼我認為這些是真實誠實的評論？我將為您提供我採用面料最為鞋面的鞋的親身經歷。我第一次赤腳穿Kyakusou在雨天體驗是幾年前京都馬拉鬆的時候。那天前的一天下著大雨，我一直爬山走到清水寺，一對水量充沛的編織鞋包住腳面真是一種難以言喻的經驗，幸運的是，廢線是聚酯基材料，經過快速乾處理。第二天這對鞋完全乾了，我和去參加京都馬拉鬆的日本運動員分享了我的經驗。第二次不容易快速乾燥的經驗來自於我對有機可洗嬰兒尿布的投資。我在華南的許多客戶都擔心在雨天或冬季如何烘乾尿布。一位油管測評者花了6個小時來烘乾他的那隻Allbirds。如果有人曾經在西方世界生活過，您就會知道，與中國人在自然光下烘乾洗滌物品的方式不同，大多數西方人在清潔後都使用烘乾機來烘乾他們的衣服。而且如果您曾經是一個窮學生，那麼您還將知道用烘乾機在6小時內晾乾一雙鞋子要花多少錢。
3.Slippery sole: just by looking at the design of the shoe, you can tell the problem of it. 100% of the reviewer had said that the shoes are vey slippery, and not suit for wet floors, rainy days and certain kind of surfaces, and even at the gym. AllBirds had two generations of sole so far， but it seem not improved much. I was kind of wondering if this is due to the material which they are using as TreeFoam?
3.光滑的鞋底：只需看一下鞋子的設計，就可以分辨出它的問題。100％的測評者曾說過這雙鞋很滑，不適合在潮濕的地板，雨天和某些種類的表面著用，甚至在健身房也不易使用。到目前為止，AllBirds擁有兩代鞋底，但似乎並沒有太大改進。我猜想這是由於他們使用的TreeFoam材質引起的？
4. Easier to worn out whilst the high cost of purchasing: almost all average Americans said that 79 dollars pair of shoes (RMB560.00) is a bit of expensive, and it could only last for less than two years. The longest review which I have seen on YouTube is 24months. Yes, if I think about my pair of Fly knit which had already being worn for four years, and only had minor issues on broken threads, I would say that my higher carbon foot print and toxic pair of Nike is much sustainable than a pair of "sustainable" Allbirds. And it cost pretty much the same amount of money or a slightly higher.
4.購買成本高昂的同時更容易穿破：幾乎所有普通美國人都說79美元的鞋（560元人民幣）有點貴，而且只能使用不到兩年。我在油管上看到的最長著用時間的評論是24個月。是的，如果想一想我已經穿了四年的飛線鞋，僅僅是斷線的小問題，我會說我的碳足跡過量和有害程度更高的Nike，比一對“可持續” 的Allbirds鞋要更可持續得多 。它們的價格幾乎相同或略高一點而已
Now let's take a look at the positive impact of Allbirds’ sustainability:
Use ingredients extracted from natural materials, innovative materials and recycled materials to make shoes.
Reduces carbon footprint by 60% over traditional shoemaking processes.
Packaging box made of recycled materials.
那麼在讓我們來看看Allbirds的可持續正能量有哪些：
使用從天然材料中提取的成分，創新材料和再生材料製作鞋子。
比傳統製鞋工藝減少了60%的碳排放量。
再生材料製作的包裝盒。
As for the shoes themselves, we think that the wearing experience of Allbirds must be very comfortable in a certain kind of climates, meanwhile the problem of dehumidification and perspiration during wearing will also occur (some users even consider bare feet experiences would be even worse) . We understand that environmentally friendly design (based on recycled and new materials) eventually have issues of quality and durability. But as far as its degradability is concerned, it is certainly worth buying and it will be more environmentally friendly after disposal.
單就鞋子本身來說，我們認為Allbirds的穿著感覺在某些氣候環境中必然是很舒適的，但同時也會產生穿著中除濕排汗的問題（甚至有些用戶提出廣角穿鞋感覺會很遭）。我們理解環保設計（以再生和新材料為基礎的）必然會涉及到質量及耐用性的問題。但就其本身可降解的優點來說，當然鼓勵的看時很值得購買並且棄置後也將會更有利於環境。
But in terms of business models, we would have to consider the following issues from different perspectives:
但是就商業模式來講我們可以用不同的角度思考如下幾個問題：
1.Are the costs of endorsements and assessments passed on to consumers? The information gathered from the above shows that the vast majority of ordinary American consumers would think that a pair of shoes that can only be worn for two years is a bit expensive for $ 79. And the the choice of materials applied on design and the crafts utilized on production process is less worthy of this price, even some reviewers feel that these shoes are not much different from HM design wise. So is there a high cost of market expenses of Allbirds? Of course, we know that Leonardo DiCaprio endorsed it free as an angel investor. Yes, but from some reviewers you can clearly see the marketing tactic of that Allbirds with hidden cost. From the amount of single brand evaluations, we can get the traces of their digital marketing actions.
代言和測評所產生的費用是否轉嫁給了消費者？從上面收集來的信息得知絕大多數普通美國消費者會認為花79美元買一雙只能穿兩年的鞋有點小貴。並鞋子在設計上多選用的材料和製作工藝的流程有點對不起這個價格，甚至有測評者覺得這些跟HM買來的外觀上沒有大區別。那麼是否allbirds也存在高成本的市場運營費用呢？當然我們也可以這樣認為，列奧納多 · 迪卡普里奧是作為天使投資人免費代言的。對， 但是從某些測評人那裡你可以清楚地知道Allbirds存在大量的網絡運營費用。因為就單一品牌測評量來看，明顯可以看到數字媒體運營的痕跡。
2. Does the repurchase of non-persistent quality products violate the principle of sustainable development? We all know the 5R principle of sustainable development. The key has always been to reduce the quantity of production. So, do products with short-lasting using time and environmentally friendly materials follow the principle of reducing the quantity of production? In order to continue the life of products, the total amount of products that cannot be reused and can only be repurchased is actually the same as traditional products. It does not reduce consumption but increases consumption.
非持久品質產品增加復購是否有違可持續發展的原則？我們都知道可持續發展的5R原則，最主要一向是降低產量。那麼使用環保材料生產的使用時間偏短的產品是否符合降低產量的原則呢？為了繼續著用，不能進行修復而只能復購其生產的產品總量其實是與傳統產品一樣的，並沒有降低消耗反而會增加消耗。
3. Which is more environmentally friendly, non-persistent quality products which use sustainable materials or traditional industry processed products? The tree runner story of Allbirds said to reduce the water consumption by 95% compared to the traditional process, and reduced the carbon footprint by half. This seems to be a perfect story, but if we have consumer who buy a pair of traditional method crafted shoes that can last for more than 5 years, then we can do the math: the length
of usage on three pairs of Allbirds is equal to a pair of shoes made with traditional crafts, then every three pairs of Allbirds have 50% larger carbon emission in compare to a pair of shoes made with traditional crafts. but the water consumption of Allbirds is less than 85% of shoes made with traditional crafts. Here we don't have all data of consumption on the abandoned shoes from entering the regeneration cycle at Allbirds, but one thing that we can be sure is that every two years each consumer will contribute at least a pair of unusable Allbirds into the regeneration cycle. The probability of this process occurring is far greater than the chance of footwear products made with traditional processes eventually entering the regeneration cycle. Of course Allbirds is still a sustainable brand worth buying for some people in some regions.
非持久品質產品增加循環利用產生的排放量與傳統產品持久使用哪個更環保？我們看到Allbirds講述的tree runner的故事中材料耗水量比傳統工藝降低了95%， 然後碳足跡減低了一半。這看起來是一個完美的故事，但是當消費者買一對傳統工藝製作的可以持續著用5年以上的鞋的時候，那麼我們從時間上算一筆帳：三雙Allbirds的鞋著用時間等同於一雙傳統工藝製作的鞋子， 那麼每三雙allbirds的碳排放量大於一雙傳統工藝製作的鞋子50%，水消耗量小於傳統工藝製造的鞋子的85%。這裡我們沒有關於allbirds廢棄鞋子進入再生循環過程中的各種能耗的數據，但是我們可以肯定的是每兩年每個消費者至少就會貢獻一雙不可著用的allbirds進入到再生循環的過程，這個過程發生的機率遠遠大於傳統工藝製作的鞋類產品最終進入到再生循環機率。當然目前為止allbirds對於某些地區的某些人群來說還是非常值得購買的可持續品牌。
4.Do sustainable business models have the shortcomings of sustainable operations? Many sustainable brands and startups use sustainability as a core strategy for their future development. Brands such as Naadam campaigned on high quality and durability. Patagonia's latest strategy is to repair instead of buying. The highlight of Allbirds is the self-developed sustainable materials. However, price and production are the decisive factors in determining whether a brand can be long-lasting. Durability and the repurchasing model are contradictions in themselves. In the face of already overabundance of serious surplus products, how to balance the expansion and price sustainable brands with obvious price advantages is a problem to be solved. The most recent case is that during this year of Double Eleven, even sustainable brands such as Allbirds have also joined the sales promotion of the battle.
可持續商業模式是否天生存在可持續運營的短板？很多可持續品牌和初創公司以可持續作為公司未來發展的核心戰略。Naadam這樣的品牌標榜的是高質量耐使用，Patagonia最新的策略是修補代替買賣，Allbirds的亮點是自主研發的可持續材料。然而價格和產量是決定品牌是否可以持續生存下去的決定因素。耐用度與復購消費模式本身就是矛盾體， 面對已經堆積如山的嚴重的過剩產品，價格優勢不明顯的可持續品牌如何平衡拓展和價格這對矛盾體，是凾待解決的問題。最明顯的就是今年的雙十一期間連Allbirds這樣的可持續發展品牌也加入了大促的商戰實在有點減分。
關於Allbirds的branding, communication, marketing可以點擊以下連結
Below are the links of Allbirds user reviews which we referred to. There are positive comments and some negative feedbacks. The footwear industry is a sector of the fashion industry that generates large amount of gas and toxic chemical materials. The current solution is also eliminate in compare to solutions which offered to clothing up cycling or recycling. Bottom end, Allbirds' raw materials are still one of the better choices of footwear industry. For the brand itself, perhaps the design details and quality of the shoes must be improved, as the company is committed to producing sustainable products. The real closed loop of sustainable development is the most difficult task for start-up companies to begin with. Not to mention that venture capital gambling are moving into the B round for sufficient funding. Whether the impact will turn negative in the foreseeable future is a breeze in the digital and algorithmic era:
我們參考的所有Allbirds用戶測評連結如下，這裡有正向意見也有一些負面的反饋，製鞋業是時尚產業中一個大量產生有害氣體和有毒化學原料的分支，目前的解決方法也沒有服裝類產品那麼多元，說到底Allbirds的原材料仍然還是目前鞋類選擇是比較好的品牌之一，對於品牌自身，也許在設計工藝及鞋子品質上的改進並致力於生產可持久使用的產品才能完成公司可持續發展的真正閉環，對於初創公司來說，最艱難的是起步資金，為資金充足邁進B輪的創投公司來，加入仍然吧大量資金用於市場營銷運作，那麼未來對於環境所產生的正向影響是否在可預見的未來轉為負面，在數字和算法時代是輕而易舉說：
https://youtu.be/eXj1aXczQoM
https://youtu.be/ukFVX-47gPw
https://youtu.be/8IwHuFgHtmM
https://youtu.be/2L1Aa3RkXVo
https://youtu.be/HZ-AQYB8XJ8
https://youtu.be/z7yLOwC3WR4
https://youtu.be/IRwgChGc4ZE
https://youtu.be/K9tbUuj27O4
https://youtu.be/uhPeEr2FuUA
https://youtu.be/IaWikV4E1sw
https://youtu.be/lqxxrj3tm_g
Here we can easily see the answer of sustainable design is still consume less, and consume less is not just limited on final products but also in terms of the consumption of raw materials water and energies, etc.
在這裡，我們可以很容易明白可持續設計的答案仍然設計是降低消耗。減少消耗不僅限於最終產品，也針對原材料，水及能源等的消耗。
In fashion industry, we not just need to take care of environmentally friendly materials, but also have concerns of the grows of the company revenue. Many solutions are either focused on the materials innovations or supply chain system improvements, surprisingly we have never seen any of the solutions which can really close the loop and make the team really work together but not by sectors. With #CycSatellites we are trying to speed up the process on digesting the quantity of total unsold products without sending them into landfills, materials regeneration and redistribution. With a small change of the way of sorting and processing, the industry can somewhat contain the total quantity of inventories and generate much more revenues directly from the stocks.
在時裝行業中，我們不僅需要考慮使用對環境友好的材料，而且還需要照顧公司收入的增長。許多解決方案要么專注於材料創新，要么專注於供應鏈系統的改進，令人驚訝的是，我們從未見過任何能夠真正形成產業閉環並使團隊真正協作而非部門分工的解決方案。借助#CycSatellites，我們正在努力加快消化未售產品總量的過程，我們的方案無需將其送入垃圾填埋場，材料再生和再分配。在分類和處理方式稍有變化的情況下，時尚產業可以在一定程度上控制庫存總量，並直接從庫存中產生更多的收入。
If you are company troubled with your fashion inventories, if you are a designer who is passionate about sustainable design and trying to find your future career path, contact us or join us to build up your Satellites, we will provide full support to help you achieve better success on your sustainable business development. We know how frustrate that you have to deal with your inventories, trying to find a descent deal to sale them for better cash flow, or paying extract cost for your storage. We know how do you feel when you have to start your brand and trying to find resource and deal with agents, or your hard working original ideas being copied and benefited to others. What you are going through, we have all been through. Work together, we can sort them all out.
如果您被自己的時裝庫存困擾，或者您是一位對可持續設計充滿熱情並試圖找到自己未來的職業道路的設計師，請與我們聯繫或加入我們來建立您的團隊，我們將提供全力支持以幫助您在您的可持續業務發展上取得更大的成功。 我們了解您必須如何處理庫存，試圖找到更好的交易價格以出售它們來換取獲得更好的現金流，或為惱人的庫存支付額外成本。 我們明白當您必須建立自己的品牌並試圖尋找資源或與代理商打交道時的不得已，或者您的辛勤工作的原始創意被複製並惠及他人時時您的感受。 您正在經歷的事情，我們都經歷過。 共同努力，我們可以幫助您解決這些問題。
Material innovation is not a guarantee of commercial success. Environmental friendly concept do not result reduction of pollution level. The most sustainable business model is to convert the things around you into wealth with the least cost.
材料創新不是商業成功的保證，環保理念不一定帶來環保結果，用最少的成本把身邊的物品轉化成財富才是最可持續的商業模式。
Follow our account to get newest update on out seminars, lectures, workshops, and exhibitions. understand the concept of #CycSatellites, the mindset transforming course on sustainable fashion design to preparing your business on sustainability development from SchoolOf|思故, clip the links below. You can also find our contact via scan code.
訂閱我們的公眾號獲取最新的研討會，講座，講習班和展覽的信息更新。 了解#CycSatellites的運作概念，從SchoolOf |思故可持續性時裝設計的課程開始轉變思維方式，準備您的可持續發展事業，詳情請點擊下面的鏈接。 您也可以通過掃描二維碼聯繫我們。
展訊
SchoolOf|Hello,Shenzhen!#CycSatellitesIsComing 「再生衛星站」和小夥伴深圳見！
更新
SchoolOf|AThankfulHolidaySeasonStartingWithGreatInitiative
SchoolOfIWere you there?昨天都發生了什麼
SchoolOf|Initialing #CycSatellites 「再生衛星站」項目啟動
關於可持續發展
SchoolOf|HowFashionIndustryChangedTheGlobalUrbanLandscape時尚改變環境
SchoolOf|VisionOfSustainability關於可持續發展你知道多少
WaysOfSeeing|WhoMadeYourFashionInReality?誰讓時尚呈現在你眼前？
SchoolOf|AStudyOfUpCycleDesign再生設計實踐紀錄01
思故可持續項目白皮書
WhitePaper-LittleDesignSolution|立特方典白皮書
思故可持續發展在線課程免費推介
思故課程分集推介
SchoolOf|第八集 可持續發展，循環經濟和慢時尚如何尋找就業平衡
SchoolOf|第九集 不僅僅限於供應鏈的真正循環經濟模式
Through this course we hope that you can transform your mindset to wards circular fashion, build your own satellite workstations and join our projects to pragmatically advance a business model that can truly influence sustainable fashion. You can achieve your own sustainable design ideals and achieve business success.
All videos are available in Chinese and English subtitles to help you understand what the details of each level will be designed. All contents are suitable for start-up business strategies.
通過這個課程我們希望你可以轉換思維，建造自己的衛星工作站加入到我們的項目一起務實推進可以真正為可持續時尚產生影響力的商業模式中來。即可以實現自己的可持續設計理想又可以獲得商業成功。
所有視頻均有中文及英文字幕，來幫助你理解每級課程的詳細內容將會設計哪些內容。所有內容均適合初創企業的商業策略