SchoolOf 01|Sustainability practice in fashion industry
思故 01|永續設計應用實務
Program design: SchoolOf |LittleDesignSolution
Lecture: Lu Min
Video Introduction|課程簡介
Sustainability became such an iconic label from the fashion industry to design education, it was said that if you do not put effort into sustainable practice in your business, no one would work with you in the future. But what are daily practical actions which you could do on your design carer? what can you do other than use recycled materials in your design?
Why do we consider upcycle design as the future of sustainable fashion?
There are enough fashion products full fill the basic need of to entire human race on this planet, but the engine of progress capitalism is consumerism and fast fashion is the only way to achieve it. Online retail and consumerism dominated the fashion industry and had turned the cycle from two seasons per year into four seasons of the show per year, now that becomes 12 months or even 56 weeks cycle.
Giving examples of a Taobao shop: to keep the customers, a shop owner needs to have 20 new styles listed every single week. Just assume that 6000 vendors sell fashion products within one year and each week will create 20 new products, then the whole year would have at least 6,720,000 pieces of garment sample being produced. And if every single item has been sold as 200 pieces per year, then there are 1.344 million pieces of garments are sold on Taobao solely per year. Obviously, there are far more fashion products that are sold on just one platform.
The total sales of double 11 at Alibaba was RMB1682.69 million. if the average price of a garment is calculated as RMB250.00, and assume that fashion products only take 30% of the total sales, then there were 2.019228 million pieces of the garment. And we know that is not just that much in reality.
Now that the most popular word is slow fashion. What troubled the industry the most is the potential unemployment. And that led to more and more designers would become up cyclists.
On the other hand, the fashion industry is putting much more effort into sustainability than last decade, not just recycling the inventories, but also developing new materials. The problem is that recycled materials CANNOT reduce unnecessary purchases and it CANNOT stop the increase of the total amount of overproduced inventories. Recycled could only digest less than 10% of the total amount of unwanted materials and leftover garments. The speed of development on new materials and recycled materials is as low as 7-15 years of a circle, and this speed is super slow in comparison to the speed at which we produce new items. Therefore, upcycling is not just a single unit redesign, it could also offer a better solution and change the future pattern of the fashion industry.
Currently, major international luxury brands and large-scale fashion corporations had all restructured the operation teams and established the CSR department in response to the demands on much more care of social responsibility and sustainability development in all sectors. Except for H&M, Kering, Nike, Adidas, and others, there are companies such as ZucZug, Icicle from China that are also putting more efforts eco into the change of better and healthier fashion industry.
If you are planning your future career and want to know what you can do about sustainable practice, this course is for you!
Most of the up cyclists think that using natural materials is the way to sustainability.
Our thoughts:
Would all-natural material sustainable design increase the total quantity of newly made products and reduce the possibility of recycling upcycling synthetic material at the same time?
Can the overproduced inventories only be recycled as fibers? Is there a new way of recycling to prevent them became landfills?
Can we make a runway collection that only uses upcycled design without using new materials?
Which one is much effective? Swapping or upcycling?
What kind of value can upcycle bring to us?
Directly technique know-hows and reform of the business structure.
Re-build from inventories
Interactive to increase appreciation of design and be part of the circular economy.
Reserve the craftsmanship and reactive human creativities.
Starting from 2016, most influential designers had added a touch of upcycled design, craftsmanship, and fabric manipulation into their collections.80-90% out of those designs can be achieved with garments from one wardrobe. What we don't understand is why do those designers rather fake the detail of upcycling than make new designs out of their inventories? What is the reason that fashion brands would easily accept the concept of making new items with recycled yarns and fabrics but not upcycling? Is upcycling really cannot be multiplied?
Starting from 2016, most influential designers had added a touch of upcycled design, craftsmanship, and fabric manipulation into their collections.80-90% out of those designs can be achieved with garments from one wardrobe. What we don't understand is why do those designers rather fake the detail of upcycling than make new designs out of their inventories? What is the reason that fashion brands would easily accept the concept of making new items with recycled yarns and fabrics but not upcycling? Is upcycling really cannot be multiplied?
The answer is that absolute we could!
To find out about them all, register for our classes.
10 sections of 20 minutes video classes which you can watch wherever and whenever you want with handouts and group discussion as support.
可持續發展作為一個新興的名詞在時尚界流行起來，教育界， 產業界一度宣揚假如新創企業或者已經具有一定規模的產業不轉型到可持續發展領域將會面臨被淘汰的危險。然而什麼事可持續發展，這個課題在企業中又是一個怎樣的真實存在呢？作為時尚產業的一員，你又能實實在在地做什麼呢？
為什麼我們覺得改裝是未來時尚產業的發展趨勢之一？
因為我們的地球已經有足夠多的時尚產品來滿足人類的基本需求，資本主義經濟傳統觀念下財富創造只能通過加快消費循環速度和不停製造來支撐傳統體系。網絡經濟和消費者主導的購買習慣促使傳統的一年兩季的生產系統循環增長為一年四季最終成為線下一年12季甚至56季。
舉個例子:一家淘寶店必須每週上新，而且要保持店舖中有至少20個不同的款式才可以保證流量。如果按照淘寶時尚店鋪總數量6000家來計算，每家店鋪每週上新20款，一年56週計算，全年淘寶平台銷售款式總量為6，720，000件，而假如每個款式銷售為平均200件，則全年銷售總量為1.344億件，當然我們知道淘寶平台上的店家遠不止這些。
2018年雙十一阿里巴巴銷售總金額是1682.69億，以淘寶時尚產品客單價250元人民幣計算，並假設淘寶服飾類產品銷售總額僅佔銷售總額的30%，則淘寶2018年銷售的時尚產品總量為2.019228億件，當然我們知道事實遠不止於此。
所以現在全球時尚界提的最多的是慢時尚（Slow fashion）。從快時尚到慢時尚，很多設計師面臨的最大問題就是即將失業。這也將會促進更多的時尚設計人加入我們的再生設計的行列。
另一方面，時尚產業為了解決時尚界的過剩產品，必須採取不同的方式來對待可持續發展這一課題。目前已知的從材料端進行的再生原料開發並不能減少未來消費品的總量，也不能阻止過剩產品的不斷增加。而再生纖維目前可知的成功方案只能解決的不到10%的面料和成衣纖維的再生。這個速度開發生產的再生纖維永遠不可能改變整個時尚產業的污染環境的現狀。眾所周知再生纖維或者新興材料從研發到應用週期在7-15年，這速度遠遠趕不上人類製造過剩不可降解的時尚產品的速度。因此改裝不僅可以做單品改裝，同時也可以做批量化處理。如何實現企業自身的內部循環才是一個很好的方向？
目前從奢侈品行業到大工業化集團，到快時尚國際品牌都已經設立了CSR部門並致力於企業的內部整合已改善整個產業的現狀。最著名的先鋒集團如H&M，Kering（開雲集團），ZucZug， Icicle等。都從產業的不同面向參與到環保設計領域。
假如你正計劃轉型成為一名可持續發展設計時尚人，並且想知道你能在這個領域實實在在做些什麼，怎麼做，我們的課程會給你答案，歡迎報名參與。
什麼樣的再生設計適合我？|What kind of up cycle design should I do?
很多再生設計師堅持認為使用純天然原材料進行再生設計才能實現環保。
我們的思考是：
1.為了再生設計刻意尋找純天然材質服飾是否會增加額外的原生產品數量而降低非天然材質服飾被升級改造的機會？
2.不可降解或者長時間降解的服飾產品是否只能作為再生纖維的原料？是否這些衣服也可以被改造更新延長壽命後減少被直接填入廢棄物堆放地？
3.再生設計一定就只有使用能穿的服裝嗎？可不可以做一台全部由再生品做的秀
4.再生設計和衣物互換哪個更有效？
再生設計能帶來什麼樣的價值？What kind of value can up cycle bring to us?
我們認為有以下幾點：
1.直觀瞭解工藝技術的應用並思考如何重組
2.增值滯銷庫存產品並使其煥發新的生命
3.讓參與改造的消費者真正體會一件衣服從研發到製成的整體過程，參與銷售，體驗時尚產業的所有環節，這樣消費者將會重新認識時尚產品的價值並真正參與到slow fashion所推廣的有質量，有價值的時尚產業中來。在可接受的範圍內購買更好的產品，從而真正降低快時尚產品的被購買機率。
4.對傳統手工藝的保留更新和靈活運用。
從2016年起，絕大多數具有影響力的國際著名設計師都在自己的設計中加入了手工業，面料改造及成衣改造的細節。而這些產品其實80-90%都可以通過學習再生設計，利用自己衣櫥中的過季時尚來完成。我們完全不理解設計師為什麼要去偽裝一種改裝的幻像卻沒有對品牌庫存進行自我改裝？是什麼原因讓時尚界寧可選擇再生原材料也不願意再生最終商品？再生產品真的不能量產嗎？
答案是完全可以！
我們已經聽過很多關於可持續發展的講座訪談，很多人認為這是一種潮流趨勢，但具體要怎麼做呢？立特方典的新課程為你解答所有的疑問。
Structure|課程結構
1. Principle of upcycle design|可持續發展設計原理
2. Design concept of up cycling|可持續發展設計概念
3. Marketing concept of up cyclist|可持續發展市場營銷
4. Branding your upcycled products|可持續發展品牌策略
5. Upcycling, supply chain, and SAARS|可持續發展供應鏈事務
6. Up cyclist, corporation relationships and solution of sustainability in new a pattern|再生設計師與集團產業的關係和可持續設計提供的全新解決方案
7. Upcycling and ethics|再生設計和社會倫理
8. Sustainability, slow fashion and upcycling without disturbing jobs|可持續發展，慢時尚和再生設計如何平衡失業率
9. Real circle of sustainable fashion business|實際的循環經濟在可持續發展時尚的應用
10.Craftsmanships, heritages and AI|手工藝，傳統和人工智能
Lecture|教授: LU Min
LU Min|陸民
Lecture|主講人
設計師，投資人，教育工作者，寫作者。 曾就讀義大利Polimoda，美國FIT和法國IFM。第二代中國獨立設計師「後現代工坊」及「立特方典」創始人，曾任職於Oscar de la Renta, Donna Karan, Givenchy 和Hugo Boss等國際品牌，職業經歷遍及紐約，巴黎北京和上海。十多年的獨立設計師品牌的實操過程中曾經成功利用再生設計完成量化生產，品牌（RE:license）盈利和藝術創作。曾經利用再生設計原理，與Nike和W+K合作完成City Attack廣告創意並於2007年獲得ADC Hybrid大獎。2008年在上海巨鹿路以再生設計產品聯合獨立設計師何艳，上官喆進行實驗性藝術事件One Kilometer Runway。2008年被選為最具影響力的中國設計力量為列十九僅次於例外。2009年再生時尚作品被甄選參加台北12%設計展。2010年與WWF合作在上海世博會Expo2010 非營利組織館展出再生設計服裝系列。2014年投資創立有機嬰兒用品品牌UD2.0. 2018年組建SchoolOf|思故 可持續發展設計教育項目。
Fashion designer, entrepreneur, fashion educator, writer. Founder of Studio P.I. andLittleDesignSolution. Worked for Oscar de la Renta, Donna Karan, Givenchy, and Hugo Boss in New York, Paris, and Shanghai. She is the second generation of independent Chinese fashion designers. More than ten years of practice on sustainable design and upcycling in Shanghai, and successfully making profits on upcycled design collection line-RE: license. In 2007, she collaborated with Nike and W+K for the "city attack" campaign and won the ADC Hybrid award in the same year. In 2008, a one-kilometer runway happened on Julu Rd. Shanghai with her up-cycled collection along with He Yan and Sankuanz. In 2008, her brand Studio P.I. was listed as the most influential designer force of the year, ranked at19th and just next to Exception. In 2009, a selected upcycled design collection was exhibited in Taipei. In 2010, collaborated with WWF to exhibit upcycled collection at Expo 2010. In 2014, she invested organic cloth diaper brandUD2.0. In 2018, she started the sustainable design education program SchoolOf|思故 and collaborated with global teaching experts on subjects such as fashion branding, styling, marketing, and management, upcycling, etc.
Experiences sharing|經驗分享
Class Set up： 10 sections of 20 minutes video classes which you can watch wherever and whenever you want with handouts and group discussion as support.
课程设置：全程10节课，每节20分鐘，錄播課程隨時隨地可以學習，微信學習群組和小組討論以及課程內容文字檔案。
雙語字幕|Bilingual subtitles
Starting day: Throughout the Year. Online course, immediately Start upon registering, and tuition paid in full. We do release course materials one per week so that students have enough time to finish up their projects and home works towards the final certification process.
全年註冊。視頻課程， 註冊付款後隨時上課。授課方式採取每週釋放一節課程內容，學生根據自己的時間在一週時間內完成作業。學生需要完成作業。
Certificate: Students who have successfully finished their studies and have passed their finals, will get a certificate from Modesign Academy.
證書發放：順利完成作業後並通過最終考核後可以獲得比利時Modesign Academy辦法的項目結業證書。
Payment methods
Tuition: We Accept your payment in USD, GBP, EUR, CNY and XBT
學費支付：我們接受美元，英鎊，歐元，人民幣和比特幣支付方式。
PayPal: You can click and pay here。 We accept three currencies under conversion as such: USD700.00, GBP566.00, and EUR640.00
您可以採用貝寶Paypal進行外幣支付，點擊這裡。支付金額：700美金，或566英鎊， 或者640歐元
Asking for Bitcoin payment and discounts,
如果您願意採用比特幣進行支付，請直接聯繫資訊獲得折扣價格。
WeChat Pay: RMB5000.00
微信掃碼支付。
